Heritage Way

The last day of the walk turned out, unexpectedly. To be the first without rain, though at times we could see showers not too far away. Walking through Darby market Place at 9am was a little eery as, due to the coronavirus pandemic, it was unusually quiet. (Pic 1)

The city council have set up a Covid secure Alfresco dining experience in the Market Place, where each family bubble can sit in its own equivalent of a beach hut, and order a beer from the Derby Brewing Co stall and food from a wide variety of participating restaurants which is delivered to ‘your hut’. (Book a table at https://www.derbymarketplace.co.uk/book-a-table/ )

The river Gardens by the council house have been modified by the Our City Our River flood defence works, now complete bar the planting. We walked past the new circular Longbridge Wier Hydro Power House, with its distinctive green dome, which has powered the council house since 2013, with the surplus sold back to the grid. (Pic 2 & 3)

The Way follows the river path south east from the city centre. This section forms part of the Derwent Valley Cycleway and, as we saw, is well used, comfortably accommodating both cyclists and walkers.

Wending through Bass’s Recreation Ground, passing under the railway near the station it enters Pride Park. This not a municipal park but a business park, that replaces the original site of Derby’s manufacturing industry, once employing 6,000 people, it, together with the gas woks was derelict by 1990. I was the master planner commissioned by Derby City Partnership to bid for £37.5m of government money to regenerated it in 1997 with the slogan ‘Partnership through Regeneration, Development and Enterprise’ – PRIDE. The original turntable roundhouse, that can be seen from the railway station is now part of Derby College at the heart of the Park. Attracting the relocation of Derby County FCs ground to the park, was a key part of the strategy, more recently reinforced with the addition of the Velodrome Arena
Several new seating areas and vantage points have been installed by the city council with wildlife to see for those patient enough to sit quietly and watch.

We passed on into the green lawns of Alvaston Park, by the lake, before the character changed back to wildlife and countryside as we passed under the ring road at Raynesway.
The route to Borrowash is relaxed and attractive, but if you are seeking more interest there is a bridleway linking the short distance to Elvaston Park and Castle (really a country house) – well worth a visit – and you can re-join the Way at Borrowash Bridge.

From here it is just over a mile by the river and across open fields in the flood plain to Ambaston, a secluded one street Hamlet with recent houses mixed with older ones that together form a distinctive sense of place.

The long walk down Ambaston Lane was interrupted by more cycles than cars until we entered Shardlow village. Once dominated by traffic on the A6, the bypass created by the A50 and its link road has enabled Shardlow to regain its composure. We passed the Dog and Duck, a good lunch stop, as we were wanted to walk a little further. (Pic 4)

Proceeding to the church we looked down the drive opposite to glimpse Shardlow Hall. We were disturbed to see it was not in good condition and walked down the drive to investigate. (Pic 5).

Upon enquiring at the Joiners workshop in the outbuildings whom the owner might be I was asked why did I want to Know. I explained I was from the Derbyshire Historic Buildings trust to which he retorted, “You f…g lot are the problem, you can ‘f’ off now and get out of my f…g shop. ‘F’ you!”To which I replied “Thank you kindly for your help” and left. I am now even more fearful for the future of this magnificent 1684 building than upon first seeing its dilapidation.

We hurried across to the 1780 Clock Warehouse which straddles a dock for loading boats with grain and still retains in bold lettering “NAVIGATION FROM the TRENT to the MERSEY”. Now converted to a pub it was busy inside, but I was served quickly and efficiently with a draught ale and a tasty lasagne. (pic 7)

We crossed the road to a very informative story board on the bridge on the canal explaining the original nature of the numerous mills, stores and warehouses. After the canal opened in 1777 Shardlow grew quickly to a population 1,300 in 1841 when it must have been a bustling hive of activity, soon eclipsed by the coming of the railways. The port now has a charming air of gentle colourful leisure activity. (Pic 8 & 9)

Walking along the canal towpath l we were surprised to see just how many narrow boats there were, both alongside the canal and in the marinas beyond the opposite bank, many of which were clearly permanent homes, some having established mini-gardens on the immediately adjacent bank.

A little flotilla of canoes came past, which reminded me that the Derwent Valley Trust’s long-term vision is also to create a Derwent Valley Riverway paddle trail from the Upper Derwent Visitor centre down to the confluence with the Trent, matching the route we were walking. Together with the Derwent Valley Cycleway this could enhance sustainable travel within the valley, cycling up the valley over several days and visiting all the attractions and paddling back to Shardlow with the river flow providing most of the motion. (pic 10)

The stretch from here to Derwent Mouth is wide and easy walking with a long line of BWB visitor moorings at which there were several traditional boats beautifully maintained and decorated. (Pic 11)

As we reached Derwent Mouth the canal, Derwent and Trent opened out to provide a large expanse of water. In the distance we could see Sawley Church between the trees before retracing our steps to the New inn where we were to be picked up. (Pic 11 & 12)

We reflected upon the walk, marvelling at its variety and agreed that every day had produced a different character and lots of interest, demonstrating just how much the Derwent Valley has to offer.

We were also impressed that every hostelry we had visited had not only followed the Covid 19 guidance to the letter, but without exception provided us with excellent fayre, whether good pub food or haute cuisine and comfortable beds and clean facilities.

Breakfast in the hotel was not available until 9am, but as the heavy overnight rain had not yet abated, and this was to be the shortest walk of the trip, there was no pressure to start early, so we indulged ourselves with an enticingly presented Full English.

We returned to Long Row, which in1792 was aligned up the hillside with a continuous sloping eaves line that is parallel with slope of the ground, rather than stepping up the hillside – a solution frequently copied later further north in the Pennines of Lancashire. When I first saw these blackened sandstone houses, they were rather down at heel having suffered a myriad of alterations. Around 1990 the Derbyshire Historic Buildings purchased one of the most dilapidated, rehabilitated and cleaned it, reinstalling a copy of the original windows and then placed it back on the market. Locals were surprised at the price it fetched, and by publishing the accounts of the upgrade, the Trust were able to demonstrate that, whilst only making a small surplus, it was still a viable proposition to improve them. Since that time, nearly all the properties have followed suit and houses in the Row are now eagerly sought after.

Across the stone paved road is another unusual house type where the mill supervisers lived – The Clusters, where 4 houses ‘cluster’ to form each building, each house having a quadrant. With gardens on all four sides these create a charming sense of place, part urban, part rural. Perhaps these were the forerunner of the ubiquitous sub-urban semi-detached?

On past the unitarian Church to the Memorial Gardens where a new Memorial ‘Sacrifice’ by Andy Mayers was added recently 100 years after the return of the soldiers from the western front in The Great War. Constructed of Corten steel it is worth walking through the garden to see it, facing back to France, evoking memories of so many lives lost, it is the face of Jim Green, one of the fourteen young man of Belper never to return.

Up the hill, the Market Place, once the village green, was paved in1881, the stones are still there, it was once surrounded by nine pubs. The millworkers were clearly a thirsty lot!
Leaving Belper by The Coppice we were soon crossing a sloping football pitch on the hillside that must be very difficult to play on! The Way follows an old packhorse route up Cowhill toward Bargate and then on meeting the road, changes route to the C17th Wildersey Farm. From here the route follows the break of slope on the eastern edge of the valley with views into the dramatic mill village of Milford. Although not on the direct route, Milford village really rewards a visit, especially if one is prepared to walk up and around the ‘back to back’ terraced houses and the ginnels and alleys hidden up the steep hillside.
We crossed Shaw Lane and through a field of very old horses, put out to pasture, laying on the grass. Through several squeeze stiles we joined the bottom of the very sunken Dark Lane as we entered into Makeney and past the Holly Bush Inn. The Holly Bush has maintained much of its original character internally with cast iron fire grates and a settle. Sitting in there you could imagine you are still living in the time of Jedediah Strutt.

Waking behind the Makeney Hotel we make our way along Duffield Bank. There is a right of way from here direct to Eyes Meadow in Duffield which forded the river near the current pipe bridge, but in the distance past, the owner of Duffield Bridge dug out the ford so that travellers could not avoid paying the toll to cross the bridge.

We could see there is no toll now, as we passed The Bridge Inn and walked across the Meadows below Eaton Bank. From here the spire of Duffield Church, to the west, on the other side of the river, rising above the trees, completes the pastoral scene. In front the Chimney of Peckwash Mill acts as a beacon. But, once there the path is squashed between the high boundary wall of the mill and the woodland at the base of the hillside, so the mill cannot be seen. In its heyday it was one of the largest paper mills in England, but in 1902 the owners of the nearby Georgian House won an injunction preventing smoke emitted from the chimney, which caused the business to collapse.
Duffield Bank and Eaton Bank, now covered in woodland were once a hive of industry, quarrying stone to feed the Victorian boom in construction from Viaducts to cathedrals. The Way enters one of these overgrown quarries, which is readily apparent when the route passes over an old quarryman’s bridge. When my children were young a house, built like a log cabin, could be seen through the trees in the quarry below. I told them this was where Goldilocks and the three bears lived as an encouragement to them to join me on the walk. The house is now hidden and I presume Goldilocks and the bears have moved on!

Emerging from Hierons Wood an unusually designed ecohouse can be seen, built with sycamore from the woodland and waste stone from the quarry. Down Vicarage Lane the Way takes a direct route by ‘Sea Wife’ down steps to The Town in Little Eaton.

Little Eaton is surprisingly self-sufficient with a school, church, chapel, cricket pitch and pavilion, tennis club, bowls, doctor, chemist, Co-op, post office, newsagent, café, butcher Barry Fitch, blacksmith and a multitude of businesses and meeting halls.

We walked on toward Derby Passing under the A38 and around the wide expanse of talbot’s turf fields and Lord Harrington’s oxbow fishing lake to the Derby Rugby Club on Haslam’s Lane. From there we could see Darley abbey Mills, now used as a unique wedding venue in the West Mill, and we stopped for a pot of tea on the new riverside terrace served by Darley’s restaurant.

Through Darley Village past the Abbey, a pub located in the restored C13th remnants of the original Cistercian Abbey – the only building in the village not restricted by covenant of the Evans Family, the mill owners, preventing the sale of alcohol
The final leg into town was along the recently constructed multi user path through Darley Park, and past the Silk Mill based upon Lombe’s original mill reputed to be the first factory in the world.

We stayed that night at the Cathedral Hotel on St Mary’s Gate. Beautifully appointed, we were welcomed by the patron James Blick, and enjoyed a gourmet’s delightful 5 course tasting menu.

Seeing the glistening bodies swimming up and down the lido from the balcony of my room, I was tempted, after breakfast, to have a dip. The temperature of the water in the pool was around 18 degrees. It felt bitter cold when first immersing, but quite acceptable once I was swimming. The water felt so clean, so refreshing, compared with normal swimming in pool water.

Matlock Bath has so much to offer it could be worth a two night stay, the Heights, Gulliver’s Kingdom, an aquarium, the Mining Museum, and Arkwright’s Cromford and Masson Mills, so the well-appointed New Bath Hotel would make a perfect base.Unfortunately, as we left the hotel toward Cromford, we saw that the Masson Mill museum and shopping centre is closed due to coronavirus, hopefully only temporarily.

Round the bend we did not follow the A6 through the dramatic cut in the rock created by Richard Arkwright for the turnpike when he extended his mill, but took the old road, now a path, opposite Willersley Castle, his home, toward the bridge and the church he built for his workers. Designed by Thomas Gardener in 1792 a classic Georgian style, St Mary’s was later ‘Gothicised’ by Henry Stevens, and in 1898 a striking series of wall paintings were added by Alfred Octavius. As workmen were inside, we were able to take a brief look, including the memorials to all the later Arkwright’s who had invested in the church.

Built in 1771 with Jedediah Strutt, Cromford Mill, was the world’s first successful water powered Cotton Mill transforming the manufacture of textiles from a cottage industry to an industrial one, amassing a fortune for Arkwight, the 13th child of a poor family, a sum equal to the National debt, and, in the process, transforming the Derwent Valley for ever.

We passed by the Mills, which were open and busy, as we had visited many times before, to Cromford Wharf and along the canal towpath, so popular with walkers. It is along this busy section where the Derwent Valley Trust is seeking an alternative route for the Cycleway across the river to avoid congestion on high days and holidays.

The surviving workshops at High Peak Junction, in place by 1830, are among the world’s oldest. This is where the Cycleway would re-join our route, and go past the Wharf Shed, a little further south. Cargo was transferred here from the Cromford Canal to the Cromford and High Peak Railway over the Peak District to Manchester.

The magnificent Leawood Pumphouse contains a steam powered beam engine that raised water from the river into the canal, and is occasionally worked by volunteers today.
As we crossed over the river beside the canal, Aqueduct Cottage came into view. Placed at the junction with the Lea arm of the canal, built by Nightingale, it is now being restored from its dereliction jointly by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust and Derbyshire Historic Buildings Trust, to become an interpretive centre.

The walk alongside the canal all the way to Ambergate is beautifully tranquil, calming the soul, as reflected by the care residents have taken of their gardens in the few cottages that adjoin its banks.

Pause on the way at Whatstandwell to read its history and of Florence Nightingales dispensary, and afterward pause again to look for water voles, little grebes, dragonflies, damselflies , meadowsweet and watermint, as this southern section is now an SSSI and Local Nature Reserve.

We lunched at the recently refurbished and expanded Hurt Arms. Not only has the building been refreshed, but also the menu. The hanging kebab and burger we ordered were served with drama in a towering basket accompanied by a traditional Barnsley Bitter.

Walking around the idyllic Ambergate cricket field we crossed Halfpenny Bridge, an old toll bridge over the Derwent, and up the steep path through The Birches, owned by the Woodland Trust, the southern end of the ancient Shining Cliff Woods.
Emerging onto Whitewells Lane, for half a mile we enjoyed good views down the valley, before stepping down a stile and crossing fields to Wyver Lane. This lovely route into Belper, past the Nature Reserve and historic rifle range, has recently been part resurfaced with funds raised by The Derwent Valley Trust to create a safe family cycleway for the people of Belper, the Trust is currently running a crowdfunding campaign to resurface the remainder.

Approaching Belper as the great English Cotton’s East Mill came into view, we witnessed the beautiful gardens and cottages lining Wyver Lane – clearly an indication of a caring community.

Crossing the bridge, we look over the foaming Horseshoe Weir to the River Gardens beyond where the new tea rooms are under construction. Onto North Mill built by William Stutt in 1804 for cotton yarn manufacture to replace a former timber framed mill destroyed by fire where he perfected the concept of ‘fireproof’ iron framed construction that was to copied around the world and ultimately enabled the construction of skyscapers (perhaps Belper has a lot to answer for!). We continued under the arch that connected North and West Mill, and on, via The Triangle, past the school, to the workers housing in Long Row. All built by Strutt and a model settlement in its day, copied by later enlightened socially minded entrepreneurs.

Our hostelry for the night was The Lion Hotel Belper, refurbished to a good standard by the Crooks family five years ago, with well-appointed rooms and a wide-ranging menu. We chose the days special of chicken liver pate with fig jam to start, and pheasant wrapped in Pancetta with baby roast potatoes and carrots in a rich port wine sauce and were very impressed with the cuisine.

We had no alternative but to walk alongside the road for a short distance, but taking the wide A6013 Causeway across a finger of the reservoir we walked on the wide joint cycle/walkway to the car park at Heather Dean where the Derwent Valley Heritage Way officially starts. The route from here was not alongside the road but in a woodland ride that runs parallel to it with glimpses through the trees to the lake. The drama of the dam, with water on one side and the valley far below on the other, came suddenly into view. Even more dramatically, the route now takes us across it.
Taking care to look both ways we crossed the busy road onto the dam. The dam was reinforced between September 1998 and December 1999 using 400,000 tonnes of sandstone from Win Hill. The work was suspended in the spring to avoid disturbing nesting herons and goshawks and, once the work was complete the gash in Win Hill was restored. As part of the renovation scheme a permissive path, now used by the Derwent Valley Heritage Way was created across the top of the dam. What a suitable way to celebrate the beginning of the official walk!
At the end of the time we took an obvious track branching off to the right, the Thornhill Trail, which is the line of the old railway built to bring the stone that built the dam. The woodland has grown since then and on can no longer see the hamlet known of Yorkshire Bridge, built to re-house the residents of the villages drowned by the dam.
We passed by the village of Thornhill down to a large building with the inscription “Derwent Valley Water Board” which was once their headquarters. It is now converted into sheltered accommodation by the Quaker community, its dour external appearance belying the warmth of the residences within.
Passing under the Sheffield to Manchester railway we cross over the Hathersage-Castleton road and over the quaint bridge at Shatton. We stopped to play Pooh Sticks in the sparkling clear water of the Derwent tributary
The route now changes character as we amble alongside the River Derwent on its southern bank, part of an intimate floodplain overlooked by the wooded slopes of the moors on either side. Within a mile the meandering river cuts into the steep edge of the plain we crossed a babbling brook on a rickety bridge and scrambled up over a small escarpment before dropping down again to the ancient steppingstones that linked the Smelting Hill behind Offerton with Ridgeway Side beside Brookfield Manor. Two of the stepping stones had been washed under the water, so no one was crossing. But just downstream we watched a gillie teaching flyfishing to a lady. Both, stood in the centre of the stream, were too engaged in their sport to notice us pausing to watch
We meandered with the river along the floodplain past the impressive Nether Hall on the far side. It is the site of one of the six halls of Hathersage built shortly after the Norman Conquest.
Up along another bluff through Goose Neck Wood, we crossed a pasture to Leadmill Bridge and the popular Plough Inn for a lunch of 6 delicious cheeses washed down with Abbeydale Ale.
An alternative venue for lunch, just a couple of hundred yards up the road Is the David Mellor’s cutlery factory. Beautifully designed and built, on the base of the old gas works – hence its circular design – the quality matches that of the cutlery within. Even if you have no need of any, it is worth looking at those on display like mini sculptures in a museum, which lends the stylish wholesome café a fresh and unique character
Leadmill Bridge, originally known as Hazel footbridge, was built in the 18th century for the use of packhorse trains. It had its original archers widened both up and down stream in 1928. We looked out for dippers and grey wagtails, as suggested in the guide book, but saw none.
We followed the north eastern bank of the river from the bridge, dodging some large carved stones stranded in the grass by the track. They may appear to be the remains some Roman villa but in fact they were salvaged from a large steel plant in South Yorkshire.
After a mile we entered Coppice Wood, part of the National Trust’s Longshore Estate, where the river cuts its route through a steep sided valley between Millstone edge and Eyam Moor. We walk between the river and a small floodplain, with the steep slopes of Sheriff Wood opposite, as we make our way toward Grindleford.
Not entering Grindleford we continue on the east bank over a boggy stretch into horse hay coppice. We took care to follow the route at this point, as a previous time we mistakenly walked along the access track to the sewage farm. The path is surfaced in places with gritstone sets but then weaves among moss covered boulders and deciduous trees until we squeezed through a style to cross the fields, with a smaller stone track almost covered by the lush pasture, towards Spooner Lane into Froggatt
Froggatt is a pretty village with old stone houses, often extended an altered with much cared for gardens has an intimate character sheltered from the weather, though more recent development has spread up the steep hillside toward Froggatt Edge to take maximum advantage of the late afternoon sunshine. We paused at the stone bridge at the bottom of the village to enjoy the secluded views both up and down stream. We wanered on, now back on the West Bank through the larch trees. Instead of seeing coots, moorhens and tufted ducks we came across a pair of young maidens who had just emerge in their wetsuits from free swimming in the river above the weir. Just before the weir,the way becomes swampy amongst the alder is as we cross over Stoke Brook to New Bridge. The ‘S’ shaped weir is difficult to see through the trees, even though it is 3.5 metres high. But we walk alongside the resulting Goit (or leet) that fed the Mill wheel at Calver.
Just before carver we pass a curious barn whose upper floor was used as a school house and chapel for the children of millworkers. Carver Mill, an impressive building (used as a screen sets for Colditz, is an 1805 replacement of an 18th-century cotton mill destroyed by fire, now converted into apartments.
As our legs are definitely tiring, we pause at the Eating House Cafe alongside the old Carver Bridge, for a cream tea. The drizzle we had been walking through turned into rain, so we donned our waterproof gear to continue, navigating our way via the one way system through the gift shop before setting on our way.
South of Carver the valley widens out again and we follow the west side of the floodplain away from the traffic on the main road. The rain became heavier and as we splashed along the now muddy path through the woodland our ears were regaled with the incessant pattering of the rain on the leaves of the trees. Reaching Bramley Lane we fair marched into Bubnell, an unspoiled elongated hamlet. But with our heads down we unfortunately took little notice of it, nor the suburban development across the river, fortunately softened by riverside trees.
We cross into Bridge End, he oldest part of the village, by the old bridge. The bridge was built in 1603 and retains a tiny watchman’s guardhouse, reputedly used to prevent the entry of undesirables into the village. Just across the river is St Mary’s church, with a clock face commemorating a Diamond Jubilee. The legend VICTORIA 1897 is used in place of the numerals.
We follow the old road up the hill into Over End, and then back down to Never End, the newer part of Baslow which grew up at the edge of Chatsworth Park during the 19th century when hotels were built to accommodate the parks visitors. We passed by one of these, the Cavendish Hotel to the triangular green beyond to stay at the Devonshire Arms. The Cavendish Hotel is beautifully located on slightly higher ground with views to the south west looking down the valley and with attractive grounds. The cuisine there is excellent and if you’re planning to stay more than one night definitely worth the money to avail yourself of their facilities. However, as it was the days end with the heavens still open, and we were to be up promptly in the morning, the more homely, though still smart, Devonshire Arms suited us very well. Showered and dry, we were able to relax and enjoy Welsh Rarebit Mushrooms followed by Osso Bucco and some more of Abbeydale’s Ales.